Pocket hoops

I have finally completed my Panniers- twice. 

SET 1 (½) :

After reading so many blog posts about proportions and petticoats- I decided to undo the progress I had made on the initial set to make the pannier 3 inches larger.

The problem is that making the hoops larger made them very flimsy.  These were probably at the size that they needed to be a pannier instead of pocket hoops.  Making it even more difficult is that I was trying to achieve the pocket hoop look while only using the skeleton (bones) and no fabric.  This was strictly an aesthetic decision as I am likely to take a few photos in my unmentionables and find that pocket hoops are ugly.

I was finally able to make this shape work by adding a reverse hoop that help the largest and middle hoops out.  Supporting braces- much like a bridge- held the end of the hoop to the waistband while still leaving space to utilize the (yet to be made) pocket underneath.

These hoops worked.  That in and of itself is a feat!  However-  when I draped fabric over them (I hadn’t made a petticoat yet) I found that I just did not LIKE them.  I know that at carnavale bigger is better- I just could not get used to the proportions.  They seemed  comical, contrived and costume-y.  Three things I do not want.

This set back completely halted my progress and for about a week I hemmed and hawed over IF I should make a new set (So much work went into this pair!)  I could not make a petticoat until my hoops were confirmed and this (and my inability to make a decision) greatly stalled my progress. 

Set 2.

Of course I decided to remake the hoops- slightly smaller this time. I took each hoop down by 3” and am much much happier with the result.   The slightly smaller hoops mean that I no longer need the reverse hoop (which worked but I did not like).

As I have dropped the top Hoop off from the waist- I still need the supporting pieces however these actually add to the architectural feel of the piece.

I also have tested to see if the waistband will fit under my stays like I want - and it does! 

Finally I have no excuse to not move on to my petticoat (except my own procrastination)

Ring around

Since my stays are complete- I have begun work on my Pannier.  It is proving to be much more difficult that I expected to achieve all of my wants with this project

The pannier is made of buckram covered hooping wire sewn into natural colored twill tape channels.  Each of the bones are trimmed and taped to prevent them from poking through.  I use the natural bend of the wire to achieve the shape. 

• Wants:
• For it to be supportive!!!
• For the pannier to fit under my corset (this is the first thing I Will abandon if necessary)
• For it to be a skeletal frame only (rather than pocket hoops which I find to be ugly)

I'm finding that I can achieve the look I want but it does not have the strength I desire. The cage skirts I already make are more modern but are intended as outwear.  I am trying to achieve the same look but with enough strength to hold up 2 or 3 (or 4) skirts.  I am also trying to keep the proportions grand enough for a costume as opposed to clothing. I find that I tend to err on the subtle or simple side.  That will NOT work for this event.

Slow uneven progress