Quilted Petticoat

I have made great progress on my quilted petticoat.  A quilted petticoat helps to hide the hoop ridges made by the Panniers/Pocket hoops.  As an added bonus- it will help to keep me warm (probably too warm).  I have to remember that Carnevale is in Febuary and likely I will spend the whole time vacillating from freezing outdoors to sweltering indoors.

The Fabric:

Many months ago in the garment district I saw this embroidered gold scroll scroll quilted dupioni. I knew right away that is what I would use to for my petticoat but as I was in the very initial stages of researching- It was not the time to buy.  At the time I didn't have even a clue as to how much I would need and at 35$ a yard- I didnt want to get the wrong amount. I had a minor heart attack when I went back (months later) and could not find the bolt. Luckily I had photographed it and the salesman knew where it had been stored away. Had it been sold- It would not have been the first time that I have missed out on a stellar piece of fabric because I was unable to make a decision when I saw it.

Anyway- here is my fabric:

Along with my fabric I bought a 1/2 a yard of the closest matching silk dupioni I could find.  This is to add to the top of the skirt so I don't have to pleat the quilting into the waistband. Despite having 34,623 colors to choose from- they did not have a matching so I went with one slightly lighter.

When I got home I found that the slightly lighter dupioni really bothered me so I decided to take the risk and try to dye it ....in Luca's fancy coffee.  (it was all we had!)  I used the anything but scientific method of boiling 6 espresso's mixed with a wine glass full of water. I tested a swatch and it seemed to work. In goes the actual yardage- fingers crossed.  BAM! The fabric came out great  albeit as silk does it lost its crunchy hand when wet. I am ecstatic over the results and more than a little proud of myself (even if the results should really be attributed to luck over any skill on my part.)

I didnt have a big enough pot or enough coffee

fabric on top is original. In the middle is after dying and on the bottom is the embroidered quilting.

Construction: 

Unlike some store bought quilted fabrics which have fashion fabric on both sides-  this one is dupioni on front, polyester batting and a fusible web/stiffener on back.  It makes sense that they created the fabric this way because it would be a waste to use silk on the back of what likely to be a home decorating fabric. The unfinished back meant a lot more work for me though.

Not only do I hate seeing things unfinished but I also was afraid this would be scratchy/uncomfortable on my legs so I decided to back the quilting.    When I initially sewed the quilting, skirt yoke and cotton muslin backing together I found that the stiffness of the quilting and embroidery left odd bumps at the top of the skirt.  I unstitched the yoke and by hand removed all of the embroidery in the seam allowance. I then pulled as much batting as possible from the top of the quilting to make it as thin as possible.  It took much longer and was much messier than I expected- but it worked.  

The quilted petticoat ties on in the standard way of 18th century petticoats.  All of my petticoats are being made with temporary ties which I will replace later.  

I hemmed the petticoat pretty short because I need to be able to wear it under both evening and walking skirts.  It is hemmed by hand with the fabric backing slip stitched to the hem for a clean interior.